Australia rocked the world with rich, slightly sweet Chardonnay ““ which everyone else copied. Often at a lower price. So what was the Aussie response? An about-turn to drier, leaner, more traditional-style wines. Aussie winemakers believe that a section of the market are tiring of “˜dolled-up’ wines and are looking for the next step ““ a version of French, but for less money.

Jacob’s creek Chardonnay delivers a mix of tangy refreshment, mild, slightly earthy flavours in a moderate alcohol format. A shade austere. How French! I like the pucker-power ““ fantastic aperitif.

JACOB’S CREEK 17 Chardonnay, Adelaide Hills, Australia 270017 $14.95~  ($11.95 till Dec 2)

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