The Passe-tout-grains designation for Burgundy Gamay/Pinot blends is now called Coteaux Bourguignons. At least now people know it’s from Burgundy. This bottle delivers a lovely delicious experience of Gamay’s brightness, along with some Pinot charm. Lightness, delicacy and refreshment are the main show. The kind of wine the French president would pour for lunch. Lightly chilled, of course. On a more local note, you might consider a bottle or two with a white linen, Sunday herb-roasted chicken. Premium-priced, as is the nature of this region.

FAMILLE ROUX 15 Coteaux Bourguignons, France 487454 Vintages $18.85

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