Bordeaux can be too traditional ““ as in too austere, or too modern ““ as in jammy rich. But here’s one in the mid-range, and therefore perfect for most events, and friends. Easy-drinking, but with an appetizing character suggesting food more than party. My first sip reminded me of bistro meals in France ““ so take yourself out to an imaginary bistro, pour and consume with gusto. Lightly chill.

CH LARROQUE 15 Bordeaux Superieur, France 92536 Vintages $16.95

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