The Australian wine industry is going through a change – from a producer of homogeneous, crowd-pleasing bottles to ‘something different’ in every bottle. The big brands will not change, but everything else is now on its own path. Individuality is the new business model. “We got you on to wine by making it easy and accessible, and now that you’re in the game let us entertain you with something more adventurous.”
Another way of putting it might be – now that we got you to love wine, we don’t want you wandering off to the French or Italian sections – we can offer weird and wonderful wines too. Less heft and more elegance is one of the changes you’ll experience in new-style Aussie reds. Over-ripe flavours are being replaced with a brighter/fresher feeling. And best of all, there is personality as well as gulpability.
Your first reaction to Plunkett Fowles Cabernet might be that doesn’t taste like a Cabernet. But why should they all taste the same when they are produced from different soils, climates and winemakers? It has Cabernet bigness/richness but there’s charm too. And he’s light on his feet. Steak is not the only food possibility. Welcome to the new Aussie red.
PLUNKETT FOWLES 09 Cabernet Sauvignon, ‘Stone Dwellers’, Strathbogie Ranges, Victoria, Australia 212761 $19.95