There is no more spirited red than traditional Barbera. By traditional I mean the exuberant, brazingly fruity-meets-tart style of the wine here. Sort of in your face, but super exciting for the senses. For fans of Coltrane over Bublé! Lightly chill, drink a glass and feel Italy coming on. Eat anything Italian, of course.

FYI. Many Barbera producers now craft in an overblown rich style to get high scores from American critics with Vegas sensibilities. Thank you Tenuta Rocca for sticking to your roots!

TENUTA ROCCA 14 Barbera d’Alba, Piedmont, Italy 427583 Vintages $16.95

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