Valpolicella comes in many weights, but there is always a note of charm, even in the lighter/medium-bodied editions. Such as this new listing from one of the regions top producers, Alligrini. The feeling is very Pinotish – delicate, with delicious, lush fruitiness, and friendliness. The fat Burgundian bottle also suggest Pinot. With a light chilling, this could be the world’s best red for white meats. And for party-pouring.

ALLIGRINI 15 ‘Di Fumane’, Veneto, Italy  519793 $15.50 ($13.50 till Dec 20)

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