Blind folded I might mistake the current vintage of Les Dauphins for a Beaujolais. Or a Californian Pinot. So fruity fresh and gulpable. Purists may say where are the herbs and earthy flavours normally found in Rhone reds, to which I say have another glass – and celebrate lighthearted red at a lighthearted price. Lightly chill and be happy. You may want to consider getting a case for summer sloshing.

CELLIER LES DAUPHINS 15 Cotes du Rhone, France 385385 $12.95 ($10.95 till Feb 26)

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